Eating With the Enemy, BBC2

Did we like it?
Four rather unattractive food critics try to be really scary – they’re billed as the “fearsome foursome” – as they judge the efforts of amateur cooks. But they’re not scary, just boring, and this culinary copy of the Dragons’ Den format isn’t going to be a winner.

What was good about it?
• Presenter James Martin is quite pleasant. Nothing more.
• The contestants – both from Lancashire – weren’t unpleasasnt.

What was bad about it?
• The critics failed to say much interesting. “I don’t think I’ve ever had to use a steak knife to cut red cabbage,” carped Kate Spicer, who was joined on the judging panel by the mountainous Charles Campion and Jay Rayner (they ate all the pies, presumably) and deeply unpleasant Toby Stephens. They sat in some sort of dungeon, interrogating the contestants about their plans before being as beastly as possible.
• The usual reality show clichés: “it doesn’t get much tougher than this”, the dim lighting, the dramatic music.

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